Good health is built from the ground up. Literally, according to a new book titled Farmacology by Dr. Daphne Miller. Her book provides an insightful view on sustainable health and healing which I thoroughly enjoyed. It is a well-written narrative of the health of our food systems as related to the well-being of our body- each regarded as complex, dynamic organisms requiring holistic maintenance and treatment.

After visiting seven family farms across the US, each chapter draws links between common ailments such as asthma, stress, and cancer, and the types of food we put in our body as means of treatment (and how ‘non-foods’ are often a root of these problems).

As a writer, I appreciated Dr. Miller’s intelligent, yet user-friendly writing style. Her humor, sentiment, and personal anecdotes from “down on the farm” interjected with discussions of scientific medical research makes this a fascinating read for anyone interested in whole food, agriculture, and healthy living.

Dr Miller’s holistic approach to wellness seems like total common sense. Eat seasonal. Eat local. Eat food that comes from farms where the earth, plants, and animals are treated with respect and care. Every time I navigate through our neighborhood’s monstrous grocery store, I wonder how many people actually eat ‘real food’. I even wonder where most of the produce comes from. Despite having beautiful and sometimes exotic vegetables piled high for row upon row, most of it isn’t famed locally- let alone in-state. “Garbage in. Garbage out.” We really do become what we eat. I can’t recommend this book enough for Dr. Miller’s valiant effort to bridge medical and ecological sciences into a thoughtful take on the relationship our bodies have to the earth.

The timing of this book couldn’t have come at a better time as I launch Seasoned Travels, a Columbus-based culinary tourism company dedicated to preserving, exploring, and building culinary traditions and cultural heritage. I have been in touch with Dr. Miller (Twitter) who is a physician and Professor of Medicine at the University of California, San Fran. She graciously agreed to let me pick her brilliant brain as many of our Seasoned Travels tours nod heavily toward agritourism and meeting food producers. We are planning some interesting farm-to-fork itineraries to Northern California with hopes of having Dr. Miller speak to our group. Fingers crossed. Stay tuned for this and until then, get yourself a copy of Farmacology, plant a garden, and get to know your local food producers! You are what you eat.

100 Places in France Every Woman Should Go, by Shawnie Kelley Foy (May 2013)

Whether a die-hard Francophile or suffering a serious case of wanderlust, 100 Places in France Every Woman Should Go encourages women to discover a special side of France dedicated to the feminine.

Author and Wanderlust Tours owner Shawnie Kelley Foy draws on two decades of traveling, living, and conducting tours in France. In this book, she leads ladies through the sparkling City of Light, along the sultry Cote d’Azur, and through the rugged mountains in search of la France feminine.

Each of the thirteen categories with its 100 entries captures France’s various personalities. Included here are eight of Europe’s top 25 most-visited attractions, such as Notre Dame Cathedral and the Eiffel Tower, but many of Foy’s suggestions steer women well off the beaten path. Make a rigorous trek to one of the Cathar Castles precariously perched in the Pyrenees, or tap into “Sacred Feminine France” with a pilgrimage to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer.

From sexy to sublime, feminine to flamboyant, romantic to rowdy, 100 Places in France Every Woman Should Go proves the allure of France for women goes well beyond the pursuits of food, fashion, and romance.

I was introduced to Context Travel guided walking tours by a friend with whom I was traveling to Rome and Paris. She took one of these in-depth, scholarly led tours a few years back and raved about how well-done they are. The small (no more than 6 to a group) tours are led by local historians, professors, scholars, and others able to put a city’s history and development into CONTEXT through tours of historic sites and user-friendly commentary. 

Fueled by a love for history, architecture, and learning, we registered for not one, but two different tours in a single day: The four hour Roma Antica Tour offering a comprehensive look at the Coliseum and Forum, and a two hour Underground Coliseum tour of its newly opened subterranean levels where the gladiators and animals dwelled. 

Ambitious seeming—- yes. But it turned out to be one of the most memorable parts of our two week trip, and by far the best guided tours I have ever experienced…ever.  

We embarked on our first Context tour of The Forum in the morning hours, and after a quick lunchtime excursion to St. John in the Lateran, we reconvened at the Coliseum for our second tour with docent, Patrizia Sfligiotti. Another archaeologist who serves as Rome’s attache for the Italian National Trust. Yeah. She’s kinda a big deal… 

Thankfully, the rain relented! This tour ended up being just Sherri and me, so we had Patrizia’s undivided attention. The new Underground Coliseum tour features the subterranean levels never before open to the public as well as the third tier, where the middle class folk sat (a.k.a. peanut heaven). We learned the lower you sat (higher class) the better chance you had of escape should the place catch fire…

This tour generally includes an overview of the Coliseum’s engineering and history, but we fast-forwarded having already been given that lecture on the earlier Forum tour. Patrizia led us down the familiar corridors of the entry level (weren’t we just here!!?) and went straight onto the platform of which we had the birds-eye view earlier. 

Standing in the arena level platform

We stood on what was once the arena playing field. This is where is all went down. Beasts, Gladiators. Children. Women. It was a bit haunting being the only two out there. Hailing from Columbus and having been to plenty of Buckeye games at Ohio Stadium, it wasn’t difficult to envision a full house of rabid fans watching madness unfold in the arena. I couldn’t imagine… I felt very small.

Entrance from the gladiatorial school

This archway led to the gladiatorial school and barracks of which you can see ruins across the busy street. They only exited through this gate if they could walk out of their own accord. The dead were unfortunately raked away through another archway— the one through which you didn’t want to pass. This passage also took us to the staircase leading down to the hypogeum (or under ground areas).

Model of the winch and lift system used to elevate players onto the field

Model of the winch and lift system used to elevate players onto the field

These two models helped us to visualize the man-powered winch and lift system (see image below). There were something like 60 different types of trap doors through which the men, beasts, and stage props could be hoisted. Whoever choreographed “the games” had his work cut out for him. 

Holes for the man-powered winches

The hypogeum is not handicap accessible and a bad rain might be cause for tour cancelation, but we slugged through puddles into the underground parts. The lowest levels, built by Emperor Diocletian, put an end to the flooding of the arena for water battles. We also got to peek into the eerie cells which held everything from men to bears prior to the fights. Note the sloping stone in the image below which accommodated a ramp onto the arena floor. Our Context docent pointed out the intricacies of engineering in ways we would have never known on our own. 

« My camera battery died before we climbed to the highest level for a breath-taking view over the Coliseum  »

    

If you have a chance to take this seasonal tour, Underground Coliseum is very high on my list of recommendations for visitors to Rome.

It’s important to develop a ‘sense of place’ while traveling and taking a Context tour is a great way to do that- especially if you have limited time in a city. 

  

It seems a natural fit for Wanderlust Tours (specializing in cultural and heritage tourism) to partner with Context Tours. I have zero concerns directing my clients to their tours, completely trusting they will make for an extraordinary experience— worth every cent. In fact, I have already sent a few people their way and have received incredible feedback. Just today, I booked a few tours for myself, husband, and friends for an upcoming trip to Istanbul. 

Context Tours has received rave reviews by Conde Nast, Wall Street Journal, Nat Geo, and others— and with reason. (Read here for press). 

If you want to book a Context Travel tour, drop me a line. They offer a broad spectrum of tours in many of the major European cities and are expanding their offerings in the US and Asia. 

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I was introduced to Context Travel guided walking tours by a friend with whom I was traveling to Rome and Paris. She took one of these in-depth, scholarly led tours a few years back and raved about how well-done they are. The small (no more than 6 to a group) tours are led by local historians, professors, and scholars, able to put the city’s history and development into CONTEXT through guided tours and commentary. I did a double-take when I read the length of tours range from two to sometimes four or five hours and was a bit hesitant to commit. I feared my attention span might conk out after a couple hours- especially “so early” in the morning. But seriously, who am I kidding? I adore history, architecture, and learning—- so Sherri and I registered for not one, but two different tours in a single day. The four hour Roma Antica Tour offering a comprehensive look at the Coliseum and Forum and a two hour Underground Coliseum tour of its recently opened subterranean levels where the gladiators and animals dwelled. 

Ambitious seeming- yes. But it turned out to be one of the most memorable parts of our two week trip, and by far the best guided tour I have ever experienced…ever.

ROMA ANTICA TOUR

Roman Forum and Coliseum- 4 hours

Livia Galante, our most brilliant docent

The only downside to the rain-or-shine tour was the rain. It poured. All day. Non-stop from 8 AM until 4 PM (except for the fleeting moment captured here). Our small group of six gathered at a designated coffee shop across the street from the Coliseum to meet our guide, Livia Galante. After securely establishing her expertise and background in Roman Archaeology, we headed straight for the Coliseum. Sherri and I had visited the Coliseum earlier in the week on a beautiful sunny day, but there was something about this morning’s gray skies and deary weather that created an ominous backdrop to the arena in which men, women, children, and animals battled to certain death. The impending doom could be felt. We entered the hulking skeleton of a building— bypassing the lines — and launching into an immediate education. 

Looking down over the arena playing field, into the underbelly.

Livia led us around each Coliseum level, explaining the architecture, customs, games, and answering every question in unbelievable depth. She did something very cool that I imagine not all guides provide (which is not a reflection of the other’s level of expertise), but she brought along a back pack full of reconstructions, overlays, and images to help us visualize the building as it once was in various phases. A very nice touch— and so were the sugary snacks handed out from time to time. Absorbing all this historical information requires brain fuel. 

The one thing that really sticks out to my mind is her debunking of a famous myth. Contrary to popular belief, early Christians were generally not fed to the lions as religious persecution, but rather due to their political descent. No less justifiable, but still intriguing. My brain’s historical wiring has been re-routed!  

The Arch of Constantine (unbelievably with NO tourists in the shot!!)

After an exhaustive tour of the arena, we raced out into the rain, getting schooled on Constantine the Great (Rome’s first Christian Emperor) while dodging mud puddles, torrents of water, and sopping wet tourists. Our group bee-lined it for the Palatine Museum, but not before poking around ruins which were once the Imperial Palace of the Ceasars. The view from the museum overlooks the legendary birthplace of Rome— the spot where Romulus established Rome in 754 BCE. The Palatine Hill became the best address in town for 300 years of Roman Emperors and the museum sits within a palatial complex. The collections are extraordinary, encompassing everything from bits and pieces of mosaics and tiles to monumental statuary and busts of emperors (and their mothers).

The Palatine Museum

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A view of the Forum & Senate building to the right

An overview of the cuisine and cocktails we experienced while in Pittsburgh— primarily the Strip District. The full article can be found at our culinary blog, Manges! Mangi! Just click the above link to read.

 Avignon: Kingdom of the Popes

 “All roads lead to Avignon” or so went the saying when, in 1305, Pope Clement V moved the papacy from strife-torn Rome to a peaceful, Provencal town in southern France.  This political move shifted the center of Christendom from the Eternal City to the small, papal enclave of Avignon for most of the fourteenth century.

From here Clement and his six successors resided continuously from 1308 until 1378, building the world’s largest Gothic palace- the Palais des Papes- and living like kings.  The stark Gothic façade gives the impression of an impregnable fortress, yet the interior was a study in opulence and housed some of France’s earliest Renaissance artworks.  Their lavish lifestyle and quest for supreme authority earned the Avignon Popes a reputation for corruption and excess, yet it was this extravagant patronage of the arts and sciences that drew great intellectuals, artists, musicians, and astronomers to Avignon, paving the way for the French Renaissance. 

Avenio: 5^th century BCE

Avenio, a Celtic word meaning “Lord of the River,” was settled as a prehistoric hill fort along the Rhone River in southern France. Its strategic location at the confluence of two major waterways brought the region into contact with great Mediterranean civilizations. The village flourished in the fifth century BCE as a Greek and Phoenician trading post, at which time Provence’s now-famous grape vines and olive trees were introduced. In the second century BCE, the Roman Empire acquired these lands stretching from Italy to Spain, naming the territory “Provincia Nostra” (‘our province’) from which the modern word ‘Provence’ is derived.  Avenio evolved into a thriving commercial center due to its situation on the river and also its proximity to a major Roman road, Via Agrippa. 

Cultural Crossroads: CE 410– 1226

During the next millennia, Avignon’s rule changed hands many times. In the early centuries, the village was decimated by a series of barbaric invasions. Vandals, Goths and Burgundes sacked Avignon from every direction. The city was eventually incorporated into the Kingdom of Burgundy, where it remained under Frankish rule until the eighth century.  Massive ramparts were built, delineating the fortified city with which we are familiar today.  A proud and cultured nobility emerged. Their Provencal identity grew strong and Provence became a powerful kingdom ruled by local dukes.   

In the early eighth century, Arab armies made their way across newly conquered Spain, setting their sights on France.  After seizing many of the region’s major cities, the Duke of Provence surrendered Avignon to the invading Saracens in 734 CE. The city served as an Arab stronghold until Charles Martel expelled Muslim forces three years later in the bloody Battle of Avignon.  

Avignon was once again ruled by Frankish kings until 1033, when Provence was absorbed into the Holy Roman Empire under the rule of Emperor Conrad II.  For two centuries, Avignon flourished at the hands of distant German and Spanish monarchs, functioning with a considerable amount of autonomy.  The city prospered, benefitting from its position on the popular trade and pilgrimage route between southern and northern Europe. Troubadour poetry and music thrived.  Craft guilds grew. A merchant-based economy arose.  In 1161, Holy Roman Emperor Frederick Barbarossa gave the city autonomous rule, with the bishop at its head.

Avignon: 1226-1308

The Republic of Avignon lasted barely a century. In 1226, King Louis VIII of France marched on Avignon during his crusade against the Cathar heretics and their sympathetic barons.  The famous Saint Bénezet Bridge, or Pont d’Avignon, linking the country of France with the Kingdom of Provence was invaluable to both sides as the only fixed river crossing between Lyon and the Mediterranean Sea.  The bridge spanning the Rhone served as his only entrance into Avignon.  Despite locking their gates and denying the king’s army access to the bridge, Avignon succumbed after a three month siege.  As punishment, Louis tore down the walls, filled in the moat and reduced the size of the bridge.  Avignon was stripped of its independence, annexed to the French Crown and placed under jurisdiction of the King of Naples- a relative of Louis and vassal to the pope. From this point forward, the city would be closely linked with the papacy.

By the end of the thirteenth century, Avignon’s reputation grew as a center for commerce, intellectualism and religious tolerance. It became a gathering place for Italian scholars and artisans. The open-minded, Provencal culture offered a nurturing platform/ setting/ scenario  [SMK1] from which the earliest Renaissance ideals would disseminate into France.  More importantly, Avignon was situated within papal-owned territory and, despite the considerable amount of political sway held by French kings over the church, the city remained outside of French rule.  It is to this rich, secure environment that seven French popes sought refuge from the turbulence of Rome and attained an extraordinary amount of independence. Many Italians, however, were none too happy about this move, including the illustrious writers, Petrarch and Dante.

The Avignon Captivity: 1308-1378

Throughout his short reign, Pope Boniface VIII (1294-1303) became entangled in bitter feuds with powerful Italian families and European monarchs. France’s ambitious King Philip IV, known as Philip the Fair (1285-1314), took particular offence to the Pope’s claim of spiritual and temporal supremacy. Boniface also made a hard stand against Philip’s taxation of clergy, asserting that kings were subordinate to the Church’s authority. Their open conflict ended in a violent anti-papal movement and the brutal arrest and death of Boniface in 1303.

Upon the election of a less aggressive French pope, Clement V (1305-1314) opted not to move to Rome, but rather aligned himself with King Philip and stayed in France.  The papal court was officially transferred to Avignon in 1308. Clement appointed nine fellow Frenchmen as cardinals, assuring the next six popes would hail from France. What began as a temporary relocation for political and social reasons turned into a century-long dispute as to the legitimacy of the papacy’s move to Avignon.

Italian writer Petrarch, who lived in Avignon, accused the church of surrendering to the French king’s political pressure. He believed as long as the Eternal City exists, it is the rightful home of the Pope. More vehemently, Dante assigned Clement V a place in the wickedest level of Hell’s inferno in his poem ‘Divine Comedy’. He compared this corrupt period to the Babylonian captivity of the Jews, prompting the city to be nicknamed “Babylon on the Rhone” and the Avignon Papacy deemed the “captivity of the popes”.

Chateauneuf du Pape

When the papal court moved to Avignon, a massive building campaign transformed an otherwise unimportant town into a wealthy, cosmopolitan city. The new castle of the Pope, or Chateauneuf du Pape, is an awe-inspiring structure built into a prominent outcrop of rock at the edge of the city with walls 17 feet thick; nearly impregnable to attack.  Most of the palace was built during the reign of Benedict XII (1334-1342) and Clement VI (1342-1352), two reform-minded popes who preached against worldly excess. Ironically, their spendthrift tendencies resulted in the ultimate display of ostentation- the world’s largest Gothic palace.  

The first building phase was initiated by Benedict in 1335.  After razing the Bishop of Avignon’s original residence, he selected Pierre Poisson as papal architect. Defense was the first line of business. The Pope’s Tower was built to house the papal treasure and living quarters. Ramparts crowned the outer walls and several more towers were built to reinforce the main gate.  Secret staircases and hallways added layers of security.

Upon first appearance, the Palais des Papes is an imposing sight, even today. The severe exterior is quintessentially medieval, but the interior screamed Renaissance elegance with its elaborately painted rooms, graceful timber ceilings, airy vaulting and stained glass; a sumptuous amalgamation of old and new.

 Painters to the Pope

Fourteenth century Avignon teemed with Italian artists working in the latest international style. Simone Martini of Sienna was among the pope’s appointed painters (and a friend of Petrarch’s.) His frescoes adorned the ceiling and walls of Avignon Cathedral, inspired by chapels throughout Italy. Fragments of heavenly scenes with a gentle Christ keep watch over the tombs of Benedict XII and John XXII, masterpieces of sculpture in their own right.

Benedict’s successor, Clement VI (1342-52) was of noble birth and spared no expense on a princely existence. He spent extravagantly, patronizing the arts and launching crusades; even digging deep into church pockets to purchase the city of Avignon from Queen Joanna of Naples in 1348.  Avignon’s city walls were heavily reinforced- a much needed defense given the onset of the 100 Years War and papal disputes with several Italian states.  Clement VI elected to build a new palace (Palais Neuf) adjacent to Benedict’s, which included a massive Audience Hall, grand chapels and additional, luxurious living quarters decorated with silk tapestries, golden bedding and tile floors.

Among the dozen towers, The Saint Jean Tower contains two extraordinary chapels also covered from ceiling to floor with frescoes by Matteo Giovanetti, official Painter to the Pope and follower of Martini. Musical cherubs float across the heavens, while the walls tell tales of saintly miracles. The St. Martial Chapel (1345) and the St. Jean Chapel (1347) incorporate some of the earliest Renaissance painting techniques utilizing “perspective” in France.

Giovanetti also was commissioned to paint Clement’s private chambers. All four walls of Clement’s study were blanketed with frescoes of a lush, naturalistic forest. Hunting, trapping, fishing and other seigniorial scenes encircle the room. The identifiable flora, realistic fauna and sensitive treatment of the human form hint of the blossoming Renaissance. A life size stag lends the room its name- The Chambre de Cerf.  The Stag Room’s panoramic mural and attempts at depth perception was progressive and original- the first example of an entirely ‘illusionary space’ since antiquity.

 The Great Schism: 1378- 1417

Subsequent popes each made their mark on the palace, but in 1378, Pope Gregory XI returned to Italy. Upon his death that same year, pressure was placed on the cardinals to hastily vote in an Italian pope, who officially returned the papacy to Rome. However, another pope was simultaneously elected by the rival Avignon faction, each claiming legitimacy and excommunicating the other.  This forty year division within the church is known as The Great Schism of the West, but ended in 1417 when Rome was formally confirmed as the Holy See.

Avignon continued as a papal territory until the French Revolution (1791), during which much of the palace was looted or destroyed.  Today it is a tranquil city. Thousands of visitors wander the cobbled streets into to the palace’s huge, echoing square, overwhelmed by both its gravity and enchantment. Tours are available for palace, cathedral and Petit Palais, a museum of medieval and Renaissance art with works by Botticelli, Carpaccio and Simone Martini.  Avignon is a captivating place to experience an unexpected side of early Renaissance France.  

As published in Renaissance Magazine, Issue 60/ All content belongs exclusively to Shawnie Kelley Foy

One of the most recognizable fortresses in the world rears up from a volcanic crag in the heart of Edinburgh, Scotland. There is a magical resonance about the mighty Edinburgh Castle, which is seemingly buttressed by the living earth; permanently affixed to Castle Rock.  Anyone trekking up the steep streets through the castle’s zigzagging terraces is rewarded with spectacular panoramic views around the city and into the Highlands. One’s imagination easily takes flight when perched above the city on this 340 million year-old rock.

Ten thousand years ago, receding glaciers gouged out the area surrounding Castle Rock, which now defines the west end of the famed Royal Mile. For three millennia, humans inhabited this strategic hilltop location. While material evidence of ancient settlements has been excavated, the first written record of Edinburgh Castle surfaces around AD 600 in the epic Welsh poem, the Gododdin. The elegiac story relays the tale of 360 warrior-princes feasting for a year in the great hall at Din Eidyn, or the ‘stronghold of Eidyn,’ before marching off to a glorious death in battle. In AD 638, the fort at Din Eidyn was successfully besieged by the Angles and its name Anglicized to Edinburgh.

Having the earliest literary reference to King Arthur, the Gododdin eternally connects his legend to the city. The craggy hill opposite the castle is named “Arthur’s Seat,”  while the castle itself, known in the middle ages as Castellum Puellarum (Castle of Women), is associated with the “Castle of Maidens,” home to Arthur’s sorceress half-sister, Morgen le Fay and her seductress fairy friends.     

Edinburgh Castle’s history is blurred with legend, but its true roots are traced to the eleventh century when Castle Rock became the site of a permanent fortress. King Malcolm II’s defeat of the English in 1018 secured the region for Scotland.  The earliest royal dynasty attached to Edinburgh Castle, the Canmores ruled Scotland for two hundred years beginning in 1058.

Malcolm Canmore, lived in exile before returning to Scotland to hunt down his father’s murderer- a story famously retold in Shakespeare’s MacBeth. Having avenged King Duncan’s death by slaying the real MacBeth, Malcolm moved into Edinburgh Castle and ruled for 35 years. His retaking of the Scottish throne was overshadowed by his wife Margaret’s saintly life, which is memorialized in the oldest building in the castle complex. 

Saint Margaret’s Chapel sits on the summit of the castle. Their son, King David I (1124-53) built the tiny church in 1120, dedicating it to his mother, Scotland’s only royal saint. The chapel served as the royal family’s private oratory until the sixteenth century, when it became a gunpowder repository during the Reformation. Saint Margaret must have turned in her grave, but rests in peace knowing the chapel survived the Wars of Independence. 

Two contemporary statues (c. 1929) of Robert Bruce and William Wallace guard the castle. The picturesque east gatehouse, renovated in the nineteenth-century, replaced a severely functional gateway guarding the most vulnerable part of the castle- the entrance. In fact, most of the castle was rebuilt in the past five hundred years using a hodge-podge of architectural style: a medieval staircase, a Renaissance palace, baroque barracks and a twentieth-century war memorial.

Naturally, a working castle takes a lot of fire- and Edinburgh was no different. The castle was a pawn in the power struggles between England and Scotland until 1296, when the Wars of Independence broke out. Scotland’s throne was up for grabs and two noble families laid claim to it, including the Bruces. King Edward I of England, known as the “Hammer of the Scots” invaded Scotland. Edinburgh Castle fell to British troops that same year.

Fourteen years later the castle was back in Scottish hands, but not before the country was stripped of its royal regalia. Edward removed the crown jewels to his treasury. The Stone of Scone, a rock upon which all Scottish monarchs were crowned, was taken to Westminster Abbey.  It remained under the coronation throne until 1950, when Scottish students stole it back.  In 1996, the Queen officially returned the Stone of Destiny to its rightful place, where it remains in the Crown Room at Edinburgh Castle- under heavy security.

It took seven hundred years for the Scottish regalia to come home, but only one daring attempt to win the castle back from the English.  June 1314, Longshank’s weakling son, Edward II was king, proving an opportune time for Scotland’s Robert Bruce to regain Edinburgh. Castle Rock is not the sort of place taken by storm, but rather by stealth! Soldiers created a diversion at the gatehouse while ‘commandos’ climbed the crag’s precipitous north face to take the castle by surprise. Scotland’s greatest prize fell into Bruce’s possession!

In 1313, King Robert dismantled all castles regained from the English to prevent reoccupation. Despite its royal status, Edinburgh did not escape destruction. All but ‘the royal chapel’ was disassembled but was rebuilt in 1358, when Robert’s son, David II came to power.

The years following Scotland’s independence, Edinburgh Castle grew into a true royal residence. Robert the Bruce’s son, David II (1356-71) rebuilt the castle.  Well-House Tower was built to protect the water supply, allowing occupants to hold out during long sieges. In 1367, he commissioned the massive L-shaped tower, now known as David’s Tower, but would not live to see its completion. He died in 1371.

David’s son, Robert II, initiated two centuries of rule under a series of unfortunate King James and the ill-fated Mary, Queen of Scots.  James I was keen to emulate the monarchs in continental Europe, but his rule (1406-37) was cut short by murdering conspirators. His young son, James II was smuggled into Edinburgh Castle where he plotted a most dastardly political assassination.

To rid the royal family of the powerful Douglas clan, two Earls of Douglas were invited to dine with the king.  After a splendid feast, the young earls were presented a bull’s head- the symbol of condemnation. Shortly after, they were tried for treason and executed in the castle courtyard. The infamous Black Dinner of 1440 secured the throne for ten-year old James.

James II stood at the threshold of Scotland’s Renaissance. Having married into a powerful French family, the Scottish monarchy saw unprecedented prestige. His patronage to the arts, literature and architecture, ensured the flourishing of Renaissance ideals. Edinburgh Castle became a royal residence during his reign (1437-60).  James’s obsession with artillery was his ultimate undoing. One of the two massive siege guns, given as a gift from his in-laws during the ongoing border wars with England, one of the prized cannons went off, killing him.  ‘Mons Meg,’ one of the most illustrious guns of medieval warfare is on display in the castle vaults.

Another Stewart child-king takes the throne. James III spent most of his time in Edinburgh Castle (1460-88).  He redesigned the Palace Yard, now called Crown Square. Unpopular for his lavish lifestyle, James III was, not surprisingly, mysteriously murdered. 

The Golden Age of the Stewart Monarchy peaked under James IV (1488-1513). The handsome, well-educated king was an embodiment of chivalry, charisma and intelligence. He had several lovers and a dozen illegitimate children before securing a wife and male heir. James IV commissioned many of Scotland’s Renaissance masterpieces, including Edinburgh Castle’s Great Hall. It was completed for his marriage to Margaret Tudor, daughter of England’s Henry VII. The Great Hall’s splendid, original hammerbeam roof is carved with thistles and roses, symbolizing the union of Scotland with England. Today, an arsenal of medieval weapons embellishes the walls and the roof remains one of the most important timber structures in Scotland. James IV’s untimely death in the Battle of Flodden forced James V, age 2, onto the throne.

James V (1513-42), another ambitious builder, drew inspiration from the opulent French court. He saw Scotland through its fullest flowering of Renaissance ideals. James upheld Scotland’s “auld alliance” with France by marrying Marie de Guise. Much to their Catholic dismay, a new Protestant religion was spreading like wildfire. Countries picked sides as a religious war was brewing.  James was passionate about suppressing this new “heresy.” Scotland’s first protestant was burned at the stake in 1528. The Reformation began and James’s daughter, Mary made the ultimate sacrifice for the crown.

Mary Stewart was born six days before James V died. They never met and she was crowned Queen of Scotland before turning one. After a childhood in the courts of France, the tall, vivacious queen took up residence in the Palace at Holyrood in Edinburgh. Amidst religious turmoil and political intrigue, Mary moved to the safety of Edinburgh Castle where, in 1566, she gave birth to her only child in a room now known as “Queen Mary’s Room.”  James VI of Scotland, would eventually become King James I of England, thus uniting the crowns of both countries.

Edinburgh Castle has, for a thousand years, been the superintendent of Scotland and serves as its national symbol. It’s operated by Historic Scotland and is home to the country’s tightly guarded crown jewels and Stone of Destiny. To learn more, visit www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/edinburghcastle.  

Each Wednesday, Wanderlust Tours posts a photo from our Travel Collection, personal travels, or one sent to us by friends and fans. 

Today’s picture was taken on a brilliant, sunny day in the Piazza Navona in Rome. It’s built on the site of the ancient Stadium of Domitian (1st c.) and follows the oval, open space of the stadium. It has served a public space since the 15th century and remains one of Rome’s most lively people watching spot. It is loaded with (expensive) restaurants, musicians, artists, and spectacular 17th c. fountains designed by Bernini.

If you have a fabulous photo you would like us to consider featuring in a future Wanderlust Wednesday post, feel free to email it to photos@wanderlust-tours.com  

Include your name, where you live, and one line about the photo. 

Every other Wednesday we feature a woman who embraces a sense of wanderlust and approaches the world with wide-eyed wonder. Today’s Wanderlust Woman is Ariana Maki, an art historian specializing in Buddhist art of the Himalayas. She currently resides between Michigan and Bhutan, with occasional visits to New York City, Hawaii, Vermont, and Columbus.  

Where I live: Though a native of the United States, since 2009, much of my time has been spent in the Himalayan nation of Bhutan, located between India and China. It is most often recognized for two things: its rich Buddhist culture and its development policy of Gross National Happiness. I’ve been fortunate enough to call both the Upper Peninsula of Michigan and New York City “home” as well.

What I do: I’m an art historian by training, specializing in Buddhist art of the Himalayas.

My favorite place(s) to travel:  Bhutan, of course! But I am also obsessed with the US National Park system and anywhere with blue water. Fortunately, my family home combines both the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore and Lake Superior; the best of both worlds.

I dream of to going to:  After so many years of traveling mostly solo for work and study, I’m really keen to get out with some friends and family, and with them, I’d go anywhere, be it the sultry shores of the Bahamas or Branson, Missouri.  But personal dream destinations include Finland, Micronesia, New Zealand, Turkey, Argentina, Sikkim, the Maldives…wait, how much space do I have?

Travel rituals: Pack at least four days ahead of time. Also I carry hard copies of my tickets and all; in parts of Asia, if you don’t have a printout of your itinerary, reservation or whatever, you don’t move.

In-flight regime: Economy comfort has become a must for any flight over 7 hours in duration. As long as I’m awake, at least once an hour I am out of my seat and moving around to stretch. I’m also a big fan of the in-seat yoga moves (Delta, KLM and other airlines print these in their inflight magazines, and also offer how-to’s on their in-flight entertainment systems).  Smartwool compression socks are an absolute must-have for long hauls, and while I am known to have a little coffee or wine during international flights, I keep them at a minimum and drink at least one liter of water for every 3 hours of flying time.  With 48 plus hours of flying and transit time to get to Bhutan, hydration is crucial.

The usual suspects inside my carry-on: Burt’s Bees original lip balm, notebook and pens, an extra outfit, Emergen-C, a shawl (which perfect for draping over my head parakeet-style during naps on the plane), and a good magazine (to me, this means Outside, Vanity Fair [it’s like a phone book!], Discover—and I give them to the flight attendants after I’m done). Not to mention camera, chargers and e-devices.  Luckily, most airlines don’t weigh carry-ons…at least, not yet.

Pack it in or kick back and relax? Both! The first couple of days abroad are dedicated to sleeping and eating at odd hours, then after that, it’s go, go, go.  When enjoying domestic destinations, it’s usually pack it in, but here and there I have managed to get an utterly relaxing escape, full of fruity beverages, lounging and sunshine.

Drive or be driven? Drive!! In Bhutan, I rented a red, manual transmission Alto (imagine a slightly more spacious and durable Yugo) and my friends and I used it to go everywhere, visiting mountaintop monasteries and sacred sites throughout the west of the country.  It took a bit of getting used to, as the driver is on the opposite side of the car (so you shift with your left hand) and one drives on the other side of the road compared to the US, but after a week, I was comfortable driving on the twisting highways and local rough roads.

My travel hero(ine) is: Among my friends, Linda and Shawnie have been big inspirations. They’re always game to go try something new.  Once, Linda and a friend and I took a spontaneous three-week trip to Spain because it was cheaper to go there than to visit Austin, Texas ($320 round trip from Columbus, Ohio to Madrid—those were the days!). Though he’s paid to travel, my hero list has to include über-food master Anthony Bourdain; he’s been everywhere, and samples everything from the finest sushi in Japan to hot dogs in Buffalo to seriously undercooked boar bowel in Africa.  Thanks to that last episode, I tried boiled and spiced cow skin in Bhutan…

Weirdest thing that’s happened during my travels: Wow. This one is hard.  I’ll just share a few: being trapped in a hotel in Bombay (Mumbai) for three days in 2000 when a bandh (general strike) caused the government to send 20,000 National Guard troops into the city; sliding part-way off a muddy, unpaved mountain road in Sha Valley (in Wangdue Phodrang, Bhutan) and taking four hours to inch the SUV back on the road, a process during which I was almost run over but got pulled out from under the car in time by a random villager who just happened by; coming home from work in Bhutan and unexpectedly finding two friends from NYC on my front porch; having a caretaker literally shove a 15 pound sacred statue that I had waited two years to see into my arms after pulling it out of a plain, grey metal office cabinet…but most of all, finding the most incredible friends in so many places.

Favorite hotel amenity: Reliable hot water and clean, bug-free linens.

My dream meal: This is another toughie. Red beans and rice at Kipahulu National Park on Maui; a khass set (veggie) at Tama Restaurant in Bhatbateni, Nepal; my dad’s grilled steak and homemade French fries; anything that comes with boba/bubble tea.

Wherever I go, I check out the: Museums. Older religious institutions (temples, cathedrals, etc.). Also the most crowded restaurants, tea stalls or food vendors—fresh, fast and (usually) clean food. And after living in Manhattan, I also admit to checking out people’s footwear far too frequently.

When in a new destination, I learn the lay of the land by: Asking around, or wandering for the first couple of days. In Bhutan, we use “Bhutanese GPS,” which entails going to the top of the nearest hill and looking down (ha, ha)

My favorite souvenirs are: Incense, soap, fabrics, and refrigerator magnets.

If I never return to _DELHI___ it’ll be too soon because __I just have bad luck here.  Illness, stuff stolen from my locked luggage while in transit, and other bad mojo seems to manifest when I’m in Delhi.  While I loved Karnataka and Dharamsala, I’m happy to bypass Bombay and dump Delhi from future Indian itineraries. Or, perhaps I need to make more friends in Delhi who can show me the wonderful places and people who certainly are there, ready to share their lives and culture.